Men’s shirts, similar to men’s suits, cost more depending on the quality of material used – as well as the quality of craftsmanship.
The rankings, from lowest to highest, of shirt fabric quality are:
- 80′s Pinpoint or End-on-End
- 100′s Broadcloth or Poplin (solid colors)
- 100′s Broadcloth or Poplin (colors that include stripes)
- 100′s Sea Island
- 140′s Broadcloth
- 140′s Sea Island
- 180′s two-fold cotton
The numbers represent thread count. So the higher the number, the higher the thread count – which makes the fabric softer. That’s why you might hear people discuss thread count when they have recently made an expensive bed sheet purchase.
If you don’t know the thread count (and many companies tend to hide it), there are three categories you should know:
- Oxford: The typical, entry shirt for all occasions. It is a comfortable shirt made from a heavier fabric.
- Pinpoint: Lighter and smoother than an oxford.
- Sea Island: Lighter and smoother than even the pinpoint. I’m not a fan of 100′s Sea Island shirts and they are a bit sheer for my tastes (nobody wants to see my t-shirt under my shirt), but Sea Island 140′s are ideal for important business occasions.
Also look for shirts that are made from “two-ply cotton.” Two-ply refers to how the fabric is woven, and a two-ply is thicker and lasts longer than a single-ply cotton shirt.
Shrinkage: All shirts, even pre-shrunk will experience 2-3% shrinkage. Of course the actual amount depends on whether the fabric is all cotton, pre-shrunk, and what mill the fabric was made at. Yep, the mill makes a difference. The best fabrics typically come from the Italian and Swiss mills. The process and the speed that mills use determine whether two identical fabric shirts will look great for 5 years or only for 5 washings.
